Arrived in Seoul around 11:30 pm expecting a deserted city. Turns out this is a nation of insomniacs and there were plenty of helpful people more than willing to confirm we were headed the correct direction. Once we were above ground the realization that American definitions were not going to hold set in. In navigating to our hotel, every alley counts as a street if you can somewhat safely drive a scooter down it. Bed located, 23 hours of traveling later.
Official day one, clear sunny, below freezing. Headed to the N'Seoul Tower, a structure similar to the space needle on a hill in the middle of Seoul. Distracted by markets and street foot (not brave enough to try it yet) but made it there eventually. 360 degree view shows that this place it truely huge. Every direction shows more skyscrapers and huge urban centers, suddenly the 10 million people in the greater Seoul area seems quite reasonable.
Went in search of Korean BBQ, ended up with incredibly spicy chicken and lots of kimchi, it is everywhere and is a part of every meal, seems that nearly every vegetable can be kimchied, some with better results than others.
Day 2 - Met up with Yoon (a friend of Lisa's) in a hip district known as Insadong. Many little shops filled with antiques, art, snacks and souvenirs. After a great wander there (and our first official lesson in Korean) we went to see Gyeongbokgung a restored royal palace. Huge grounds (probably beautiful in the summer when there is grass and everything is in bloom) and it backs up to the Blue House, where the president of South Korea lives and works. Try two on the BBQ, this time resulting in bravery to try street food (really really hungry) and bean cakes with meat and seafood in the middle. Taste, but huh.
Day 3-5 - Bright and early train to the south eastern town of Gyeongju. It has a much smaller population (only 1/4 mllion) and a slower pace. Rumor has it that in the summer months it is even a celebrity destination. The city is filled with large burial mounds used in the Shila period for royal burials. A small wooden room was built around the dead and filled with things needed in the after life. This was then covered in stones and then heaped with dirt. The modern day result is large grassy mounds 2-3 stories high interspersed though the city.
Took a day trip to the Bulguksa Temple, recently restored and currently both a tourist attraction and active Buddhist temple.
The people here were well before their times, every building is designed to have fires lit below the floors for the main source of heat. Headed up the hill on a 3.2km hike straight to the top of the ridge to visit the Seokgulam Grotto. Spent some time laughing at the difference in safety styles between here and home. They allow to your get very close to many monuments and walk most places, without rails, without even steps, without having cleared the snow. Pretty much they expect people to take responsibility for themselves. The trip to man-made reort lake named Bumonho, was really cold and not that eventful. Turns out to be mainly a summer retreat. Also went to a Korean history museum.No BBQ located on days 3-5, though we ended up with an octopus dish, kimchi, the ability to de-bone a fish with chopsticks, kimchi, and something containing many unidentified but tasty ingredients cooked table side.
Day 6 - Back to Seoul on the KTX (Korean Express Trains), short journey back to a ghost town since today marks the start of the Lunar New Year here and most people have headed home to celebrate with their families. Had a great wander and finally located the infamous BBQ, and indeed it was delicious.
Here are some key pictures of the adventure so far and a link for the rest if you need to kill some time:
http://picasaweb.google.com/jwwinasia
(the pictures off John's camera so far with a note on why we didn't do both)
Hope all is well on the home front,
Liza & John
2 comments:
Looks like good fun!
Safe travels.
Rick
Keep on keepin' on.
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